Centella asiatica in perfumery and cosmetic products.

  Centella asiatica is an unremarkable plant growing in tropical regions of Asia, Oceania, Africa and America. Centella leaves, or gotu cola (“fountain of youth”), are applied in Chinese and Indian traditional medicine to treat ulcers, swelling, wound healing. In addition, there is evidence that the centella extract contributes to the improvement of cognitive functions in neurodegenerative disorders. Currently, Centella asiatica extract is a standardized substance that is widely used in the cosmetic & pharmaceutical industry.

This article will consider the effects of active components of Centella asiaica raw materials, as well as ways of using Centella asiatica in cosmetology and medicine.

The first dry extract of the Centella asiatica was obtained in 1941, and in 1948 the main active substances of the extract were isolated — triterpene saponins (Asiaticosides, madesassosides et al.). Research proves that these active components stimulate the production of collagen type I, thus helping to retain moisture and improve the appearance of the skin. These properties of the centella are particularly important in the development of anti-aging cosmetics, as the amount of collagen in the skin decreases with age.

Cosmetics with centella extract are becoming more popular. Currently on the Russian market you can find a variety of creams, masks with centella, imported mainly from South Korea.

In addition, the Centella asiatica extract has a pronounced antioxidant activity comparable to grape seed oil. Due to increased collagen synthesis and antioxidative properties, Centella asiatica extract found use not only in cosmetology, but also in the therapy of damaged skin. There is evidence that madesassoside, a part of the Asian centella extract, causes proliferation in the skin of fibroblasts and increases the levels of hydroxyproline used as an indicator synthesis of collagen in damaged skin, which in the experiment led to increased epithelization. This means that the centella extract could be a potentially useful component of drugs to treat wounds and burns.

There are also developed cosmetics with centella designed to prevent the appearance of striae in pregnant women. For example, an effective composition in the form of cream and patch containing extract of the Asian centella, α-tocopherol and hydrolysates of collagen and elastin is known. The composition belongs to Novartis and is recommended for use in Spain. In Russia, this product is not certified.

References:

  1. Bylka, W., Znajdek-Awiżeń, P., Studzińska-Sroka, E., Dańczak-Pazdrowska, A., & Brzezińska, M. (2014). Centella asiaticain Dermatology: An Overview. Phytotherapy Research, 28(8), 1117–1124. doi:10.1002/ptr.5110
  2. Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2013;30(1):46-49. doi:10.5114/pdia.2013.33378
  3. Farahnik B, Park K, Kroumpouzos G, Murase J. Striae gravidarum: Risk factors, prevention, and management. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2016 Dec 6;3(2):77-85. doi: 10.1016/j.ijwd.2016.11.001. PMID: 28560300; PMCID: PMC5440454.
  4. Wu F, Bian D, Xia Y, Gong Z, Tan Q, Chen J, Dai Y. Identification of Major Active Ingredients Responsible for Burn Wound Healing of Centella asiatica Herbs. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2012;2012:848093. doi: 10.1155/2012/848093. Epub 2012 Dec 30. PMID: 23346217; PMCID: PMC3546525.