IDEBENONE IN THE COMPOSITION OF COSMETICS
There are substances in our body that can destroy different cells and useful compounds. They are called free radicals. For example, two collagen molecules, which became free radicals, when collided with oxygen radicals, become so active that they can bind each other. Normal collagen cannot behave like that. Linked collagen is less elastic than normal one and holds water less well. That’s why cumulation of linked collagen cause wrinkles.
Antioxidants protect body cells reacting with free radicals instead of body cells. It means that in case of collagen, antioxidants interact with oxygen instead of collagen, preventing its linkage.
There are a lot of natural and synthetic antioxidants. Among them there can be defined benzoquinones (for example, ubiquinone and idebenone), which have antioxidant properties.
One of the most well-known benzoauinones is ubiquinone (or coenzyme Q10), which is very often included to the composition of anti-age cosmetics.
Idebenone is the synthetic analogue of ubiquinone. It was synthesized by Japanese scientists in 1980s for the treatment of neurodegenerative diseases. However, cosmetologists paid attention to this substance due to its high antioxidant potential. (Lucia Montenegro, Rita Turnaturi, Carmela Parenti and Lorella Pasquinucci Idebenone: Novel Strategies to Improve Its Systemic and Local Efficacy Nanomaterials 2018, 8)
During the clinical trials idebenon turned out to be more effective than such substances as: coenzyme Q10, DL-alpha-tocopherol, vitamin C, etc. (McDaniel, D.H.; Neudecker, B.A.; DiNardo, J.C.; Lewis, J.A., II; Maibach, H.I. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2005, 4, 167–173.)
Higher effectiveness of idebenone in comparison with coenzyme Q10 is connected with its structure. Molecule of idebenone is by 60 percent less than its analogue coenzyme Q10. This characteristic makes it easier for this substance to cross skin barrier, saving its properties.
It’s not surprising that idebenone is sweeping the market of anti-aging cosmetics since its clinical effects are really impressive. According to clinical trials results, after six weeks’ use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. (McDaniel, D.H.; Neudecker, B.A.; DiNardo, J.C.; Lewis, J.A., II; Maibach, H.I. Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2005, 4, 167–173.)